Our Via Podiensis walk has been derailed by my achilles injury, which hit during the second day of steep, 1,500-foot descents. Seven distance treks and nearly 2,000 miles of injury-free backpacking ended with a limp into our convent-hotel in Saint Come d’Olt.

The next morning, we taxied to the charming, riverside village of Estaing, where Sue found a pharmacie and a brace designed for achilles injuries. Not knowing which size I needed, I sought help at the counter. Next thing I knew, I was sitting in a room, where the woman from behind the counter measured my ankle and helped me pull the extra-tight brace over my heel. Then she pantomimed how I would walk if I didn’t use supports under both heals. We all laughed and, once again, we benefitted from the professional help we would not expect in most American pharmacies.

The brace eased the pain, then our day became even more memorable when we ran into Joy and JR from New Hampshire, whom we had gotten to know over dinner several days before. More laughs and stories followed over lunch.

My achilles is gradually healing (with Aleve) and we hope we can get back on the trail after our rest day in Conques.