The Tale of Two Tuscan Cities

Our view of our destination from the Via Francigena.
The tower city in our rear-view mirror.

We left behind San Gimignano—the tower city—and followed the Via Francigena to Monteriggioni—the walled city.

It was a day of ups and downs, showing off gorgeous Tuscan views from a sometimes rugged trail along with many miles of arduous and even dangerous road walking.

At one water crossing, longer and trickier than the one in the photo above, a young guy yelled out as I started, “Need some help?” Thanks to practice on the John Muir Trail, I handled the crossing on my own with no problem. I am fighting taking offense, though, when a whippersnapper assumes that my age makes me feeble.

By the end of nearly nine hours, we covered nearly 19 miles and 2,400 feet of ascent, including a final push up an achilles-testing climb to the imposing walled city.

In one day, our feet covered two of the most beautiful places in all of Italy.

Italy Shines Despite Rain, Roads, and Mud

Our third day on the Via Francigena took us up, up, up to San Miniato on another mixed-weather walk. However, Tuscany did not require sunshine to display its natural Italian charm.

Thirty miles into our planned 250-mile stroll to Vatican City, the “trail” has been mostly ho-hum, marked by roads, mud, and tall, wet grasses atop riverside berms. But, like all our distance walks, the Via Francigena’s merit eclipses the inconveniences. Plus, I have this feeling that there are many, many surprises ahead.