French Camino: Our Third Pilgrim Path

The Santiago de Compostela Cathedral and St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City welcomed us.

The French Camino is our third trek on a pilgrimage route, all marked by centuries of walking by Christians from all over the world. These days, many walk the paths for non-religious reasons, but it is almost impossible not to feel some spiritual aspect of each trek.

Our first pilgrimage path, in 2013, was the Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James) across Spain and our second, in 2018, was Italy’s Way of St. Francis across northern Tuscany and through the Umbrian Mountains to Vatican City and Rome. Both finished at grand cathedrals, where spirits of pilgrims past seem to greet all who walk in their shadows. For a few trekkers we have met here, the French Camino continues beyond our current finishing point, St Jean Pied du Port, and continues all the way across Spain to Santiago de Compostela, as it did for centuries.

The finish of both our previous pilgrim treks was bittersweet. Our tired bodies welcomed the end, but our hearts told us we would miss the depth of experiences. As we near the end of the French Camino, our longest walk, I wonder how we will feel this time—after more than a million steps.

The third finish for Christian pilgrimages is Jerusalem, one we are unlikely to experience. But we won’t say never, will we?

French Camino: A Day of Distractions

The air was crisp this morning as we departed our hotel and walked through the tiny village of Miramont-Sensacq. An hour later, we hoped for distractions from the cornfields, pavement, and the onset of heat that would fall just short of 90.

We were in luck, sort of.

Churches continue to be one of my favorite features of the French Camino and we visited three today. Outside the first church, a young guy was packing up his camp that featured his hammock. He would catch up with us later, and we shared a few steps while he described his intention to walk all the way—solo—to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. A French native, he had started in Le Puy just a few days after us. His would be a 1,000-mile camping journey.

The surprise return of cattle country and new calves, amongst the cornfields, also refreshed part of the day. But another rerun—hills—reminded us over and over that the Via Podiensis was not finished issuing challenges.

In sum, it was an up-and-down day.

We are trying not to wish away the remaining seven days of this trek.

Yes, we are tired, but we remain aware this is an experience of a lifetime.