Our journey across France took a day off today after 12 straight days of changing countryside, dwindling fellow trekkers, and mostly scorching heat. A sprinkle of rain offered a day of relative cool while the trail led us over miles and miles of hot pavement on farm roads and, lately, through vineyards and corn fields. Yesterday marked a day when we saw just four other trekkers, quite the contrast from the pilgrim stampede of five weeks ago.

Although there have been some trying afternoons, our pause gives us time to relish what we have experienced while walking more than 400 miles and climbing more than 44,000 feet on the Via Podiensis. I will never forget the relief I felt yesterday at a rustic pitstop, chugging ice-cold water while sitting on a plastic chair on railroad tracks—in a rare sliver of shade.

Nine more days and a little more than 100 miles remain as we look forward to walking into St Jean Pied du Port in the Pyrenees, where fresh pilgrims will be arriving for their Camino Frances across Spain. I expect it will rekindle our treasured memories of our first Camino 10 years ago.