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A Year After the French Camino, the Trail Calls Us

Reg Spittle 5 Comments

A year ago, our steps connected these two historic pilgrimage places, nearly 500 miles apart on the French Camino, or Le Puy route.

We climbed on interior stairs to the top of the Statue of Notre Dame de France. The statue graces the highest point in Le Puy, France, and offers a spectacular view of the medieval city, home to the Camino that has hosted pilgrims for centuries. The 1860 statue was constructed using cast iron from 213 Crimean War cannons and delivered by Napoleon.

Le Puy marked the beginning of our journey.

Six weeks later, we stood on the iconic bridge in St. Jean Pied de Port, just five miles from Spain. It marked the beginning of the Camino Frances, the most traveled distance trail in the world and our first trek 10 years ago. On our way to St. Jean, we traveled over countless mountains and hills, along valleys, over rivers, and through French villages during an unusual fall heatwave that tested our resolve. Farms, ranches, forests, high plains and much more lined the trail. We stayed in small hotels, a few hostels, and were nearly stranded without accommodation and food more than once.

The memories make our seventh distance trek feel fresh. We are eager to tackle another trail, but where will it take us?

That’s for 2025 to unveil. The beginning of the year will also unveil Reg’s third trekking adventure book; more on that later.

Meanwhile, we will walk vicariously via YouTube and on trails around our Ashland, Oregon home.

The Best Walk on the Oregon Coast

Reg Spittle Leave a comment
  • Several coves expose sandy beaches along the trail.
  • Erosion has created concretions, or cannon balls.
  • Tennis courts were just a few steps away from the mansion.
  • This is just a section of the restored garden next to the trail.
  • Seals and sea lions perform constant concerts at Simpson Reef.

The Oregon Coast Trail follows one of America’s most spectacular coastlines. Sue and I have a favorite section, and it is easily accessible near Coos Bay, and our recent walk began at the beach opposite Sunset Bay State Park. We caught the trail just beyond a basketball court, where it climbs to follow bluffs for nearly five miles to Cape Arago State Park.

After a mile or so, the Cape Arago Lighthouse appears in the distance. Midway, at Shore Acres, there is a bluff-top room with history exhibits and large windows to view gray whales. It graces the site of a mansion built by timber tycoon Louis J. Simpson in 1908; it featured a Roman bath, swimming pool, ballroom, tennis courts, and nine guest rooms. A 1921 fire destroyed the mansion and it was rebuilt, only to fall into disrepair during the Depression.

The state of Oregon now owns the land and has restored the nearby garden (free admission), which is almost always in bloom with a variety of plants from around the world. A beautiful pond and rose garden may make it difficult to remember you are on a day hike. Shore Acres is home to a spectacular light display every Christmas season.

The second half of the walk leads to Simpson Reef, where a viewpoint offers the sounds and sights of seals, sea lions, and shorebirds, all part of the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge. You can turn around here, or continue along the road to Cape Arago, where a path leads downhill to closeup views of sea animals. Several picnic tables beckon below the path and offer–you guessed it–eye-catching views.

We have walked the Sunset Beach-to-Cape Arago path often during our ten years living in Oregon. Sometimes sunshine warms us, sometimes fog chills us, sometimes wind buffets us. Regardless, the path always rewards us.