GPS, tracking our every step, says we have walked 450 miles (including diversions) and ascended 39,000 feet. Today, though, let’s focus on what we have seen—and not seen—on the French Camino. You might want to flip through the slideshow before proceeding.

This is an ancient religious pilgrimage, so it figures places of worship would pop up now and then. When we set out from Le Puy, I vowed to enter every church that was open. Oh my, I had no idea what I was saying. From tiny chapels to grand cathedrals that inspire awe—and much more—my steps around and inside places of worship have added to my (and Sue’s) step numbers. They have been among my favorite steps and not just because they are much cooler inside.

Lately, as the 90-degree days and humidity continue to chase us, farms have dominated the scenery. We yearn for the shade in the dense forests of the earlier part of the Via Podiensis, but treasure relatively brief times through tree canopies.

You know what? We haven’t seen one golf course the entire way. And the few lakes we have seen are small, and they are reservoirs.

We are in Condom today, in Three Musketeers land, and I instantly regretted my pose in front of a statue I spotted outside the cathedral. I shouted to Sue to snap the photo before my buns turned to toast, the metal surface was so hot. Let me tell you, it was tough to smile.

We have seen far fewer fellow trekkers the farther we go. The crowds are long gone. But a higher percentage of those we meet are going farther. One young guy from Germany started at his front door, like pilgrims used to do, and planned to walk all the way to Santiago, Spain, a distance approaching 2,000 miles. He admitted over dinner that he had days when he was not motivated, but was determined to finish. He told us his next trip will be on a bicycle—around the world!

We still meet mostly French folks, but last night we dined at a table dominated by Australians and maybe an English bloke or two. One couple about our age, an Australian and Frenchman, met on the French Camino a few years back and now share homes in both countries. We visited with them on the trail today and in Condom.

As Americans, we are a tiny minority on this trek. We have met just four from the USA. One hotel keeper said we were his first American guests—ever.

Stay tuned—we have 14 days remaining on this trek. And a brief break in the heat is promised beginning tomorrow.