Trail Snakes Along Easternmost Coastline

Newfoundland’s East Coast Trail is North America’s easternmost coastline path. While camping near St. John’s, Sue and I sampled three varied sections.

Measuring 168 miles, 25 paths are connected by 41 miles of community walks. On the La Manche Trail, we walked over a swaying suspension bridge that spans a wild waterway flowing into the Atlantic Ocean.

Sue took a break at North Head, a three-mile walk from Spear Lighthouse, where I stood at a plaque marking the easternmost point in North America, excepting Greenland. Some argue Alaska wins that title, though, since it extends into the eastern hemisphere.

At St. John’s Harbor, a cliff-hugging path encircles Signal Hill, where flags on a tower were flown for many decades to alert the city if approaching vessels were friend or foe. Today, locals use this section to test their endurance on steep ascents and descents.

We found stunningly beautiful scenery on the East Coast Trail, punctuated by boardwalks over marshland as well as rocks, gnarled roots, and mud that slowed our progress. There are designated campsites in some areas, even wooden decks for your tent.

Our weather in July was mostly dry with temperatures in the high 60s and low 70s; we dodged winds that can blow your hat off.

Volunteers with the East Coast Trail Association won’t stop until they expand the path to 373 miles.

Of Newfoundland’s Trails and Canada’s Loonies

Good weather, spectacular scenery, and dramatic trails guided us across Newfoundland, Canada to Terra Nova National Park. Sue and I drove to the end of one of many northern land fingers to the 17th-century village of Salvage, where a path took us uphill, through forest, and over bridges to views of the Atlantic Ocean and the harbor. The humpback whales known to glide along the coast avoided our eyes.

The next day’s adventure took us up again to overlooks of the vast forest, ocean inlets, and lakes. Although the 300-site campground in the park was busy, we saw few other hikers. As usual, Sue snapped the photos in the slideshow.

Tidbits: Newfoundland is a half hour ahead of Atlantic time. One-dollar coins, commonly used in Canada, are called Loonies after the loon on one side; the other side has Queen Elizabeth II. Loonies trade for 73 cents against an American dollar.

Rainbow flags are often on display at parks, government buildings, and some businesses. Watch your speed here: the sign says 100, but that means kilometers per hour, or about 62 mph. Gas prices are regulated by area and are based on liters; it is more expensive in remote regions. Gas sells for about $5 (American) a gallon here in St. John’s.

Drivers in the Atlantic provinces are mostly less aggressive than drivers in the ‘States. They rarely tailgate or pass on the right.